Dan Casey

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Centuries before white settlers ever landed in North America, an Indian footpath snaked through the wooded hollows and rocky knobs of what is now known as deep southwestern Virginia. Later came the railroad: a line that hauled lumber west, from Damascus to Abingdon; and later east from Damascus, up into the mountainous Grayson Highlands and south into North Carolina.

The last locomotive inched up those steeply graded tracks on the Virginia Creeper line in 1977. Today, the rails and ties are gone. But thanks to years of efforts of by the federal government, local governments and a cadre of committed volunteers, the path remains. The broad and smooth Virginia Creeper Trail runs 34 miles from Whitetop Station in the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area westward into the city of Abingdon. It is popular among hikers, equestrians and cyclists. One visit there and it's easy to understand why.

My wife, our young three daughters (Anna, 4; Erin, 7; and Caitlin, 10) and I rode 17 miles from Whitetop Station to Damascus stretch recently (Anna rode in a two-wheeled bike cart). We're definitely going back.

Essential information

I never thought I'd come across the mountain bike path with a difficulty rating of zero. The amount of work you'll do heading west on the Virginia Creeper is even less than that. It's pretty much entirely downhill -- 17 miles of shady forests, serene mountain pastures, and mountain laurel and rhododendron glades.

Plan on coasting for three hours, including rest breaks and time to take in the awesome views. A mountain bike is necessary. Sunglasses or other eye gear is a must. Carry your own water and your camera, too. Much of the trail is stone cinder, so plan on getting dusty, too. The vertical drop from Whitetop Station (elev. 3,576) to Damascus is 1,646 feet.

The route

You'll park your car somewhere off Laurel Avenue in tiny Damascus and stroll over to Mount Rogers Outfitters or Blue Blaze Bikes, two shuttle services that will haul you and your bikes 17 miles up curvy Virginia route 58 to Whitetop Station. From there, it's a gleeful and gentle 15 mile descent. The last two miles are more or less flat.

The trail snakes back and forth across the Whitetop Laurel River more than a dozen times; narrow wooden trestles of varying height and length make that easy for you. At 3- to 5-mile intervals are picnic grounds and outhouses. There are even a couple places to buy soft drinks and snacks, but bring your own food if your tastes are even remotely gourmet.

One stopping point, about three miles from the top, is Green Cove Station, an old general store/railroad station/post office that the U.S. Forest Service has turned into a museum. Blue denim jeans, red rubber boots and old patent medicines still line its shelves; a rusty and pot-bellied iron stove stands in the center of the old store's creaky wooden floor.

If you don't have a bike, you can rent them from Blue Blaze Bikes or Mount Rogers Outfitters. The shuttle service itself is around $9 (Blue Blaze offers a discount for kids). A half-day bike rental including shuttle is around $20.

More ambitious cyclists forgo the shuttle and bike up the mountain from Damascus, then back down again. This isn't quite as forbidding as it sounds. The steepest grade on the trail is 6 percent, and that's only the last three miles heading up. For the first 14 miles, it ranges from 2 percent to 4 percent. And it's downhill almost all the way back.

Dan Casey | The Roanoke Times

Blue Blaze Bikes in Damascus.

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Map

• Map of the Virginia Creeper

Others may wish to park in Abingdon and catch a shuttle to Whitetop. That costs around $12 ($32 if you also rent a bike). It's also a full-day's riding. The trail is much flatter between Damascus (elev. 1,930) and Abingdon (elev. 2,040), so you'll definitely have to do some pedaling for that 17-mile stretch.

Notes

The Virginia Creeper is very popular; plan on sharing it with other cyclists, hikers and folks on horseback. If you want shuttle service or bike rentals, it's best to reserve them. If you're bringing along infants, you may have to take your own kid-carriers. Check with the shuttle outfits when you call. Folks not used to sitting on a bike seat for hours on end may also want to rent a gel-filled saddle cover. It costs about $3 and will make you ride a lot more pleasant.

Blue Blaze Bikes offers shuttles from both Abingdon and Damascus; (540) 475-5095 or (800) 475-5095.

Mount Roger Outfitters rent and repairs bikes and offers shuttles from Damascus; (800) 337-5416.

Highland Bike Rental is located next to the trail in Abingdon; (540) 628-9672.

For more information on the trail or about hotels or inns in Abingdon, call the Abingdon Convention & Visitors Bureau at (800) 435-3440