"The more you spend time with your plants, the more you develop a relationship with them," says Owen Taylor, founder of Truelove Seeds in Philadelphia.
The seed company works with small farmers to cultivate and preserve not only rare seeds but also the stories and cultural significance behind them. It’s the difference, Taylor says, between seed-saving and seed-keeping (which is also Taylor’s Instagram handle, sans the hyphen).
Many of Truelove’s elusive seeds — for black peanuts, Paul Robeson tomatoes, Clemson spineless okra, Georgia rattlesnake watermelons — have been snapped up for the year.
Taylor says the pandemic led to an unexpected shortage; about half of Truelove’s inventory sold out, and he’s even had trouble finding certain products.
But you don’t need to buy seeds. Even one tomato plant or a window box can provide enough for next year. Taylor walked us through the basics of seed-saving and why it’s worth the effort.
Walk us through the process of seed-saving a tomato
You want to pick the healthiest plants with the fewest signs of disease, because you’ve become at this point a plant breeder.
You’re selecting how the fruit will look in the future, so pick the perfect fruit. Pick it at ultimate ripeness; you want a seed to get as much of what it needs from the mother plant before you pick it. Luckily we eat tomatoes at the same stage where they are most ripe.
Squeeze the seeds out in a jar.
What I like to do is put either a paper towel or some kind of breathable fabric with a rubber band or a string over the jar lid so that no flies lay their eggs in there. And I label it with the name and the date so I know, three to four days later, it’s fermented enough to go in and stir up.
Add water to the top of the jar so that the good seeds all sink to the bottom, and all of that kind of icky stuff goes to the top.
If you see mold, that’s good. The mold is a sign that it’s done its job. Then you pour off all the floating stuff carefully, leaving the sunken good seeds behind. Repeat that step three, four times until what’s left is absolutely clear water and heavy beautiful seeds. Then you strain it out. Get as much water out as you can. Lay it out to dry on paper bags, parchment paper, or a ceramic plate — something that the seeds won’t stick to.
Then dry them for a couple weeks.
Find a space that’s out of the sun with some airflow, maybe a fan or dehumidifier. We put the date on that too, so we know when it’s really dry. If they stay wet in storage, they’re going to mold and rot and become unusable.
And that’s it.
Put them in a jar with a screw-top so nothing crawls in there, and keep them in a cool, dark place, well-labeled, for next year. You want them to be fully dormant, not being stimulated by moisture or sun. That’ll keep them sleeping until it’s time to wake up.
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